Saturday, May 26, 2018

The Camino

These past three weeks have been some of the best times I have ever had.  We saw so much, explored so many new places, and learned a lot about history and ourselves.  I had never traveled outside of the country and without my family, so there were a lot of new experiences.

I really enjoyed visiting all of the various cathedrals and churches along the camino.  Each one of them was so unique and different and had its own atmosphere of peace and tranquility.  I felt a sense of tranquility every time we entered into one of these spaces.  The amount of time and patience that it would have taken to create any of those places always astounded me.  I especially enjoyed when we got to witness a mass or worship of some kind in one of these holy spaces.  It really helped make the trip more powerful for me as I as able to partake in worship and practice my faith while travelling.

However, my favorite part of the trip was getting to observe and interact with other pilgrims.  I met two pilgrims in Burgos, Spain and had a very nice conversation with them about their journey so far, and one of them said something that has stuck with me ever since.   She said that the camino is your camino.  You are in charge of your own camino and your own journey.  I was floored by the depth of that statement, because it was so true.  Everyone is on their own journey and walk of life, and while multiple people may be doing the camino, each and everyone of them is going to experience it in a different way, and walk away with a different meaning.  I couldn't believe how relevant that statement was to all people, in every situation.

There is so much more that I could say about this trip.  I could talk about the food, the places, or even the music we listened to in the van, but none of it would do this trip justice in explaining exactly what it was like.  This trip has changed my perspective on the world and shown this small town girl just how big the world is.  I have often thought before the trip that it might be fun to someday walk the camino.  After this trip, it will definitely be happening.  I don't know when or how, but someday the camino will see me again.

Oh Carcassonne...

... One of the prettiest cities we visited. This walled city has been standing since mideval times. In the 1800s the city and castle had fallen to ruins when there was an initiative to restore this place to its former glory. Drawings were made, and slowly the city began to take life once more. It wasn't long and it became a stop for travelers from all over the world. Everyday people flood the streets to visit the shops and stores, tour the museum and castle, and enjoy the many options for food and drink. We greatly enjoyed our time here, exploring and experiencing the culture.  A few of us commented about feeling like princesses living in our own mideval castle. Overall, we had a wonderful time and I would love to go back to visit again someday.
 

People of the Pilgramage, my most memorable experience!

While in Leon walking back to our hotel, two others and I met pilgrims doing the Camino. One, a female (we did not catch either of their names), was from Toronto, Canada and another, male, was from Ireland. Both had just met a day or so prior to speaking with us when they stopped us on the street and asked where we were from. As we began to talk about our class on the Camino, they started to tell us their own story about their journey doing the Camino. We talked about the woman who was doing the northern route both walking and busing (because her legs were tired) and the man who said he has done part of the Camino each year in two-week chunks. They shared their experiences of meeting new people and bonding during the walks/at hostels. The book we read for this class reflected on the author's experience with meeting new people and then getting to speak with others who were also experiencing it, and getting to experience it in our own way as well, was amazing. I loved chatting about how they did the Camino and why they did. They expressed that you had to make it your own Camino and not do it for someone else. They also emphasized walking in a small group or by yourself, bigger groups get too hectic and harder to make it an individualized experience. Through this interaction, I feel like I got more information and knowledge that I would have without speaking to people who currently were walking the Camino because of how real it made the trip seem. I know that I was studying the Camino and "doing my own Camino," but speaking to those who were walking it because they want to know they can made the trip and my knowledge of the Camino that much better.

Friday, May 25, 2018

Camino de Santiago

At the beginning of this trip, I was not sure what to expect because this was my first time taking a class abroad. I didn’t know anyone in the class and that made me a little worried at the beginning, but I was able to get along with everyone very easily.

During our three week class, we went to many different cathedrals that each of them had something special and unique, visited museums, bridges, and many other places. All the places that we visited had meaning, they were all part of the Camino De Santiago, our topic of study. Before this class I didn’t know much about the Camino until we got to France. I didn’t understand the importance of this pilgrimage until we started our own journey of the Camino and actually experience what everyone else was experiencing. We saw lots of pilgrims during their journey and we got the opportunity to talk to others. Once we made it to Santiago, the end point of the pilgrimage, we could see how happy the pilgrims were because they made it after who knows how many days, and this leads to my favorite part of our journey.

I enjoyed going to the cathedrals, museum and even all of our hikes, but my favorite part was seeing all the pilgrims walking the Camino and how excited the local people were about the Camino. The Camino is as important for the people that are doing it and for the local people that live in the area. During our time in Spain, I was often asked if I was doing the Camino and I would tell them that we were studying about the Camino and walking small parts of it. Even though we weren’t actually doing the whole thing, the fact that we showed interest in the Camino made the local people very happy.

I was able to make new friends, experience new culture, try different foods, and enjoy the beautiful mountains and ocean views. 

 

                                                     

The Pilgrims Journey Ends

Well, now that the trip is over, all I can feel is overwhelmed by everything that happened. We saw and did so much that it's almost too much to process. We tasted amazing food, visited beautiful places, experienced different cultures and learned so much about a journey most of us knew nothing about until this trip. If I had to pick one thing from this that will stick with me though, the beauty of nature all across this journey will stick with me forever.  I love all things nature. One of the hardest things to come by in Iowa are beautiful areas of nature that aren't parks or landmarks (unless you find flat farm fields beautiful). For me, this trip allowed me to find so many opportunities to truly appreciate the world we live in. Everything from the gorgeous hiking trails we walked to the views we saw on the drive to our next location, so much of this trip was filled with breathtaking sights. I also think nature is such an important aspect of the pilgrimage. To step back from everyday life and go into the unknown world is a vital component to appreciating everything this journey has to offer. The world is a wonderful place and this trip really gave me the amazing chance to see more of these beautiful environment.

The Finale to a Wonderful Experience

I was beyond excited to be embarking on this journey when it began, and let me tell you, it was more than I could've imagined. Not only was there plenty of splendid food, beautiful sights, and great company, but I learned so much about the path that many pilgrims follow along the Camino. As someone who is unsure on what I believe in terms of religion, the prospect of following a religious pilgrimage was daunting at first. But I learned on this trip so much about how it doesn't matter what you believe when walking the Camino de Santiago. The Camino can be whatever journey an individual decides to make it about. People from all walks of life come to follow this path, and it is quite inspiring to learn about. I've been enlightened on this trip, and feel as though I only got a small taste of the amazing things that the Camino can give me. I fully intend on returning someday in the future to walk every kilometer of it...

A City of Guarded History

Carcassonne is far and away one of my favorite cities from the trip thus far. This was originally a strategic trading location linking itself to the Mediterranean Sea and the Pyrenees. The location is most well-known for its fortified Roman structures and to the two walls that surround the city. The structures fell into disrepair and were renovated in 1853 by a famous architect at the time, Eugène Viollet-le-Duc. For me personally, one of the main reasons I liked this town was because of the unique historical feel.

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Everywhere you walk is within a historical landmark. In fact, the town itself is a World Heritage Site of UNESCO. The old brick and stone streets have been walked on by generations of people, the cathedral that stands tall and proud in front of the gates, and the wall that can be seen from virtually every point in town. Everywhere you go makes you feel like you are a part of history. This feeling mixed with the sadness that this was one of the last spots on the trip really gives Carcassonne a lasting impression in my mind. 

Living in a Castle

Our last new stop along our journey was in Carcassonne, France. This town is a renovated fortress that allows tourists an in depth look into life inside a city during medieval times. I loved living inside Carcassonne for the time we had. It had such a different feel compared to everywhere else we stayed on the trip. Beginning with how we had to park outside the city and walk in through the double walls, and continuing with exploring the museum and walking through the Basilica of Saint-Nazaire. Overall, a beautiful experience in a beautiful castle city. I definitely could've spent more time in Carcassonne, as there was so much to see there simply wasn't enough time.



Reflections on Santiago

Santiago. One of the final stops on the pilgrims journey. A place of great significance to anyone following the Camino. This city is home to the burial site of St. James and is one of the final stops for all pilgrims. One of the experiences that stood out most in my mind about this town was the mass for those pilgrims that finished the Camino.

Image result for cathedral of st james

It was held in the cathedral of St. James with several different languages represented. There were hundreds of people in attendance. Those there were from all around the globe, places as close as France and as distant as Russia. The mass was meant to be a blessing and a sort of ceremonial congratulation for finishing the long journey. The service was only about 45 minutes long, but it certainly meant quite a bit to most people. Some people sat through the whole service with a smile on their face, others quietly admired the building and there were a select few that even started crying.

It is hard to articulate through a blog just how much of an impact this pilgrimage has on people. Seeing the small part of the journey we have as a class gives me some small insight into this. People fully devote themselves to the Camino, walking in the path that thousands have done before them. Whether it is important to a persons' religion or simply the difficulty of the walk itself, this means something very personal to anyone who follows this path.

A Final Reflection

After having a couple days to process what just happened I can say that I am beyond grateful for the experience. From the amazing sights that we saw to the people I got to experience the trip with, it was  an experience of a life time. The memory that struck me the most from this trip was when we finally reached the “edge of the world” which was the end of the camino and we got to see what it was like for the pilgrims to finally get there. There was one lady who burst into tears as soon as she reached the end. I couldn’t tell if they were tears of joy or tears of sadness, either way it was the most touching thing I’d seen the entire trip. I can’t imagine what it would feel like to finish the camino but I’m sure I’d also burst out into tears. The things that the pilgrims have to go through whether it be rough weather or not so ideal living conditions, it is quite the accomplishment for them to finally get to the end. Thinking about it I can’t help but want to go back and ask the pilgrims what was running through their heads as they finished. Were they glad to be done? Were they sad? Or, did they feel like they didn’t know what to do with themselves since they had just spent at least a month doing nothing but walking, eating, and seeing the sights. Watching the pilgrims alongside the road as we drove made me start to think about how dedicated you have to be to your faith to put yourself through something like that. I hope to have faith as strong as that. Overall, I will never forget my first trip abroad and how it was an eye opening experience that I loved. I finally got to fulfill my dream of traveling abroad and I loved every minute of it! What a way to end my junior year of college!!🇫🇷🇪🇸❤️

Wrap up on an amazing trip

I am beyond great full that I had the chance to go on this class trip. I learned so much about different cultures and what it is like to be a pilgrim. I would love to someday go back and walk the whole pilgrimage. The idea of spending 30 days walking across northern Spain would be amazing. To see the ocean and the mountains and to meet new people. I feel that traveling and talking to different people everyday would be an eye opening experience to learn about people. One of the bigger takeaways I had from the trip is the purpose of walking the Santiago. It’s about finding yourself and becoming closer in your spiritual faith. I want to be able to meet new people and hear about their experiences. I also would like to hike the Camino with my boyfriend and be able to strengthen our relationship and faith more. 

The Final Stop


As the trip comes to the end we got to stay in castle and boy was I excited! Finally I had the opportunity to act like a real princess and stay in a castle for two nights. The location was beautiful they had two walls surrounding the outside of the castle that you had to walk through in order to get into the inside. This was used as a protection barrier from intruders. A lot of the buildings inside the walls were reconstructed as they were in ruins and the people who redesigned them tried to restore them in the best possible way that still fit the architecture of that century. The museum we stopped at had a lot of different artifacts and the views from the top of the towers were amazing. The city has since grown and extends outside of the walls which was easily seen from the tops of the towers. What  I found interesting was how big the fireplaces were. Back then when there wasn't any heat they only used fireplaces and made the rooms smaller while have the fireplaces be very large in order to keep the room warmer during the winter.


Carcassonne: A Medieval Play-Pen

I lived in a castle. My life is complete. There were several sword shops within walking distance. I have lived my dream and it was everything as amazing as I would have expected it to be. These are the thoughts that fondly run through my mind whenever I think of being in Carcassonne for two days, it's that ridiculously amazing to me. There were musicians in the restaurants, there were musicians in the streets, there was a man in a suit of armor balanced on a small pole, it was all so wonderfully bizarre.

And yet there was still so much to learn from this place. Taking a tour of the main keep of the castle, we got to walk around some of the walls and learned of the history of the walled city, considering it had been occupied since all the way back to Roman times, up until it was taken by the visigoths in the 400's, exchanged hands a few times until the Cathars were fairly well established inside. The Cathars were then smoked (or rather, sieged) out of the city during the Albigensian Crusades in the 1200's, which is a similar story for every Cathar city.

Hundreds of years later, the city has been reconstructed based on one man's research and understanding, creating a modern day Carcassonne that is, as far as scanning has shown, pretty darn close to what the original looked like. His vision resulted in some of the best memories I have of not only this trip, but of my entire life up to this point.

Carcassonne and Our Last Goodbye

...and we reached the end of our trip. Carcassonne, a medieval fortified town. 

As a little girl, I always dreamed of going to a castle. Have I fulfilled that dream? Yes. Not only I went to the castle, but I stayed there for a couple of days. 

Carcassonne is a beautiful town that was starting to get built around 500 BC and throughout the years the town kept getting stronger. The entire castle is surrounded by walls that protect's the castle from the outside world. Nowadays, there are entrances made for people to go in, visit the place and enjoy the beauty of Carcassonne.   

This was our last stop from our trip and I think it was very sentimental because I knew the tame to go back home was approaching sooner than I expected. As soon as I stepped in, I was amazed by how pretty Carcassone was and I was only seeing a small part of it. There are many stores, restaurants, bars, hotels, and well you name it. Once you are on the other side of the wall is like you enter a whole different world. Something that I really liked about Carcassonne is that everything looks like the medieval times and they made it feel like it with people dressed up walking around and taking pictures. I don't think I have too many words to describe Carcassonne, but that everyone needs to visit this wonderful town.  

                                           

Santiago, A Mass to Remember

There are a few things that we do in life that both in the moment and looking back upon them we realize the surreal nature of what is or was going on. For me, the first time I really experienced this was standing in the Cathedral of Santiago, with a thurible almost as tall as me suspended from a pully being swung through the church at ridiculous speeds. In that moment, seeing all of the pilgrims from across the world arriving at the end of their journey, hearing the voices singing with the organ, smelling the incense fill the room, it's a truly surreal experience.

The entirety of the mass itself held no shortage of experiences as well. It's a strange but spiritual feeling to go through an entire service in a language you only barely understand but to still know exactly what's going on at all times since you've experienced these rituals every Sunday for the past 20 years of your life. The words may not be the same, but the music is, the structure is the same, and priests around the world give homilies that last just a few minutes longer than you always want them to.

The most interesting aspect of this mass for me at least, was looking around and seeing people from all over the world gathered together, speaking a multitude of languages and each with their own unique lives, and yet I still felt that they were welcoming. It felt like a local church parish, with people who have been there for years and are glad to see you each week. That was the incredible feeling I got from this service, from this journey. That's what I hope to always remember and take with me.

CarcAMEDIVALCASTLE


We drove to Carcassone on a bright, sunny day with poppies. I was super excited about being in a castle and getting the chance to roam around. One of my favorite things about Carcassone was learning about how they restored the city. Once the city was taken by the Catholic Church, they didn't use it and instead, built a city outside of the stronghold. When it was decided that the city was going to be restored after being used as a stone quarry. Architect Viollet-le-Duc restored it along with Paul Boeswillwald (who worked on it after him) destroyed parts that were added to the castle and reconstructed the medieval design the castle originally reflected. In a video we watched about the renovation of the castle, we were told that they now use special technology to detect how the castle has changed and what it use to look like based on pre- and post-restoration differences. I was amazing to see that something similar to an x-ray was able to help further an entire medieval stronghold and what took place while it was in use. From this renovation and the historical importance it holds, the Carcassone Castle has become a UNESCO World Heritage site and is visited by tourists who wish to see and learn about the castles' unique story. Below is a website where you can explore the different changes to the castle and learn more about it!


http://www.creme-de-languedoc.com/Languedoc/sightseeing/carcassonne-citadel.php



Monday, May 21, 2018

Old Style Catholic Voting Box (Santiago de Compostela Museum)

During our stop in Santiago de Compostela, we visited Santiago de Compostela Cathedral Museum where they had many different interesting things to see, starting from the old choir chairs to Spanish tapestries. There was a particular room in this museum that got my attention, it looked like an office (or at least that is how I saw it). The room had a chair, desk, and books, but against the walls it had two boxes and in front of the desk there was a silver bowl.

Neither the boxes or the silver bowl had a description of what they were and do to that part of the group was very curious to know more about them. The box ifself was black and white, it had small rectangular holes on both side of the box, it was used many years ago by the Catholic Church to make votes. Sometimes they would bring topics and issues that couldn’t be resolved easily so they would put them into votes. The rectangular holes where for the voters to insert their vote into the box. They had two options, a black token for negative (no) and a white token for positive (yes). After everyone was done voting they would count each token and go for the highest score. This method has not been used in years and the last time the church had to put something on votes was two years ago with a different method.

The second method and now used is a silver or gold jar, where they can put a piece of paper voting “yes” or “no” to the topic being discussed. We did not have any explanations or reasons of why the method was changed, but I think it might be because is more efficient, requires less space and it looks more modern. After taking the votes and counting them, the votes are placed in a silver bowl where they get burn, and that bowl is only used for that specific reason. 

For me the voting system years ago was different, it looked very private and practical. Even though is not in used nowadays, back in the day, that was the only system that was used to vote. At the museum we were not allowed to take pictures and for that reason I don’t have a way to show you what it looks like, but I can tell you it was a very interesting box.

Goodbye For Now Carcassonne

Ever since I was a little girl I’ve been obsessed with all things Disney Princesses especially Cinderella! The thought of living in a castle and wearing big ballroom dresses all the time excited me! I lived for fairytales and even as a 20 year old I still love fairytales so getting to stay inside the walls of a castle was beyond exciting for me. My dreams of being in a castle came true and I loved every minute of it. From the cute little shops that contained handmade trinkets to the food square where you could just sit, eat, and people watch all day, I fell in love with Carcassonne!



The castle looks like it came straight out of a Disney princess movie and that is all thanks to Eugene Violet-le-Duc and his pupil, Paul Boeswillwald who restored the city from 1853 - 1911. The restoration gave the city back its original splendor and it became one of the most iconic Medieval cities out there because of its pointed slate roofs. It was even inscribed on UNESCO’s World Heritage list in 1997.




Walking through the castle in Carcassonne was by far my favorite part because you got to walk through the castle and along the walls just like the people would have done when the castle was being lived in. Also, the view from the castle was spectacular, I can’t imagine waking up and looking out the window to see that everyday because with the castle being on a hill you get a view of the city out pretty much every window you looked through. The whole experience made me feel as though I was living in a fairytale. Someday I’ll go back to Carcassonne and continue to live out my dream of living in a castle and being a princess but for now I’ll relive in my head, the short time I spent feeling like a princess in the city of Carcassonne! 🇫🇷🏰❤️

Santiago pilgrims mass

Santiago pilgrims mass

As the pilgrims take their last steps to the end of their journey they all make sure to stop at the Cathedral, Santiago De Compostela. When they arrive they attend the mass which is mostly in Spanish but also in different languages. They are all blessed with an incense that swings from a large incensory at the end of the mass. This was a grand sight too see, it took five men to swing the incensory in the cathedral. I did not take a video, however if you are interested you can follow the link to view the event. It was a lovely service that lasted about forty-five minutes.

The blessing with the incense for the pilgrims was and is used as a blessing but also as a way to make people smell better. I found the second part as a fun fact that was probably more so used a long time ago.

video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtxuvtZqOog



Sunday, May 20, 2018

Santiago Pilgrimage Vs Others

Hi everyone, its Allison again. Who will be thankful in a couple days she can reset her google account! We went to the pilgrims museum in Santiago and I had a great time discovering different pilgrimages a cross the world and lead by both christians and other religious groups. To begin, there are three main pilgrimages christians make. One to Jerusalem, another to Rome, and lastly to Santiago de Compestella. Jerusalem is the main pilgrimage for the three great monotheist religions because it is the "Holy Land" held sacred by each of them for various reasons. Rome centers around the burial sites of St. Peter and St. Paul, holding relics and a tomb that draws people to the city. Lastly, is the one we are learning about, that draws in those who wish to trek to the theorized burial site of St. James. For each of these pilgrimages, word was spread across countries and the importance of the sites and relics drew people to set off on the roads to each of these important places.

Close to where I found this information, I was lead to a map (below) that held many symbols dictating other pilgrimages that draw their roots to various religions. Both Catholic and Orthodox have their own, along with Hinduism, Judaism, and Islam. Others include, Buddhism, Taoism, and more. I found it very interesting that the most populated places for pilgrimages lied in areas where the religion stuck but also may or may not have been reached to hold relics or other important items to draw people to those areas. For example, there is a few catholic and islamic spots in Eastern Africa. After some research I found that these places do not hold relics, however, the hold miracles and experiences that those walking the path wish to experience. I related this back to two individuals who I spoke with about "their" trip to Santiago. They reflected on the people they met and the importance of the road there. It was amazing to experience the road through them and be able to discover more about other pilgrimages along the way!



http://jesuitsmidwest.org/news-detail?TN=NEWS-20141028012037&Method=Active


Saturday, May 19, 2018

The "Final" Pitstop on the Camino

No matter what route a pilgrim takes along the Camino, all directions are heading towards Santiago de Compostela. This point in the pilgrimage is sort of the final destination of sorts, even though there are still more places to go. Santiago is the location of the burial of Saint James' remains, and the purpose of the pilgrimage for many who walk the Way.



My personal favorite stop we made in Santiago was at the pilgrim museum itself. I found it very interesting that this pilgrimage is so important that there is a whole museum dedicated to preserving and documenting it. I enjoyed being able to see all the things that we've learned about, such as the many depictions of Saint James on his horse, as the "moor slayer". Another aspect I enjoyed was the comparison between the appearance of pilgrims years ago to those traveling today. It was almost comical to see an image of the clothing and supplies that pilgrims wore and traveled with back then right next to modern day bright flashy athletic clothing and gear.



We Made it to Santiago!!! (Finally)

Yay!  We made it to Santiago de Compostela, after what seemed like weeks and months, which in reality was only about fifteen days.  We have seen so much up to this point, it is incredible.  One of the first things we did while in Santiago was attend the Pilgrim Mass at the Cathedral of Saint James.

This cathedral and mass are exactly what the pilgrims are traveling for.  Inside the cathedral are the remains of Saint James in a large ornate reliquary that people are allowed to go see, touch, and pay homage to.  This is housed directly behind the altar in the front of the cathedral.  The rest of the cathedral is ornately designed with many other chapels along the sides and in front.  I was surprised at the amount of non-christian carvings that had been etched into the stone by the builders of the cathedral.  Everywhere I looked, there was more "graffiti", something I definitely wouldn't have noticed if my professor hadn't pointed it out.

There is a pilgrim mass offered twice a day, every day, for the pilgrims that are constantly arriving in Santiago.  The mass is given in many different languages, the one we attended was primarily in Italian.  It was a very traditional Catholic mass that I was able to follow along fairly easily with, even though I couldn't understand most of it.  At the end of the mass a large thurible was swung through the Cathedral with burning incense as a sort of blessing on all who were there.  The incense has been always been used as a blessing in this mass, but also as a way to mask the smell of the pilgrims in medieval time.  It was truly a sight to see, and something I will not forget for a very long time.  I hope to someday make it back to the cathedral, but as a pilgrim who has walked the entire camino.

(Pictures are from google, I couldn't get them to upload from my phone.)



Thursday, May 17, 2018

The Burning of Incense

While in Santiago we had the pleasure of attending a pilgrims mass at the cathedral in Santiago. Not being Catholic, I had never really seen a catholic mass before. I couldn’t really understand anything about the mass because I’m not familiar with how a mass is done and it was also in Spanish so I couldn’t even follow along with the words. Overall the whole thing was a little confusing for me but the most confusing part was this thing that they did at the end. All of a sudden there were at least 5 guys pulling on ropes that swung this shiny smoking object through the air. In the picture below it is the big black/silver thing hanging in the middle of the picture.


I later found out from some friends that this was the burning of incense that usually happens during mass just on a grander scale. After they told me what it was all about I decided to do some research and figure out why it was so important since they seemed to make a big deal out of it at the mass. So, the shiny smoking object that they were swinging around is called a censor and that is what they put the burning incense in. Once the incense is burning, they proceed to swing the censor around sending the smoke wafting throughout the church. While researching I found out that smoke of the incense is a symbol of purification and sanctification as well as a symbol of the prayers of the faithful rising to heaven. Researching this ritual gave me insight into the mass that I didn’t have before. Going back to the grandness of the whole thing, I think that the reason the censor is so big is because the cathedral is huge and they have a lot of people that come to worship so they need something big enough to put the incense in so that they can burn enough for all of the people that come to the mass. Overall, the cathedral was beautiful and getting to experience the pilgrims mass was pretty cool even if I didn’t understand it.

Wednesday, May 16, 2018

Museo del chocolate Astora

The roots of chocolate in Spain. This magical place found in the city of Astora is one too remember. There were three different rooms filled with antic posters and different forms of chocolate machines. There was also a video that demonstrated how chocolate in the past was made. View the video below to learn more on how they made chocolate then and now. They use a lot of the same techniques when creating present day chocolate but use machines that make the process easier. Below are some pictures from the museum and below that is a link to the website if you're interested in learning more. Stay tuned for my last couple days of adventures - Alyssa 

























Website: http://www.aytoastorga.es/turismo-y-ocio/MUCHA/index.html

Tuesday, May 15, 2018

The Iron Cross

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Along the path of the Camino sits a quiet landmark that speaks volumes to the pilgrims that pass it by. Between the town of Foncebadón and Manjarín is the Cruz de Ferro otherwise known as the Iron Cross. The Iron Cross does not look like much from afar. It’s a simple, wooden pole reaching about 3 meters high with a cross on top of it. It was built around the 11th century and has become a must-stop destination for those traveling the Camino de Santiago. According to Dr. Survilla, pilgrims used to carry large stones up to this point of the Camino as if they were “bearing their sins.” Once they reached the Iron Cross though, they would drop off their stones, and, in a sense, they lifted away their sins. 

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After walking through the cold with snow and steep hills, it’s all easy to understand how meaningful this is to all the generations of pilgrims that have walked this before. Reaching the peak of the Iron Cross and seeing the large open fields was an amazing experience. It provided a very well needed breath of fresh air after all of the site seeing primarily in the city. It was certainly an experience I will never forget.

The Cathedral of Many Styles (and Museum of Astorga)

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Along the way to Santiago de Compostela we made a pit stop in Astorga, which is in the province of Leon. We visited the Cathedral of Astorga, which was full of beautiful stain glass windows, plenty of chapels, and a stunning main altar piece. One of the key features of this cathedral is that it brings together many different styles of architecture, including Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, and Neoclassical. The cathedral is built upon the foundations of the old Romanesque cathedral and the inside is Gothic style while the outside is Baroque. The portico however are Renaissance and the cloister is Classical style.

The museum is filled with a slew of religious art, including the jeweled reliquary of the True Cross. All in all there are over 533 works in the museum in total. The museum was designed in 1889 by Bishop Grau and was finally opened in 1954.

We had a guided listening tour for this museum/cathedral experience. The guided tour went over the purpose and history behind each of the chapels around the secondary naves, as well as information on the main nave and the choir. The listenings for the museums were less detailed than those for the cathedral itself, but I still found them informational.


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Image may contain: indoor

Monday, May 14, 2018

The León Catedral and I

The León Cathedral and I connected from the beginning. From the stained glass to the extravagant altar pieces I was blown away as soon as I stepped in the building. The stained windows are all so ornate and depict different scenes from the Bible based on which chapel area they are in. My personal favorite stained glass windows are the three rose windows located on the main facade as well as the northern and southern facades. 

Northern: 

Southern: 

While we were there the main facade rose was under restoration but I got to see a glimpse of it from inside the Catedral and it was by far my favorite of the three. After reading the magazine on the Catedral that they gave us I found out that the window is a lot more than just beautiful. They designed it so that the rays of the sunset hit the different parts at the right time. The first rays enter through the panels that depict “The Tree of Jesse” and the whole window finishes lighting up in the afternoon when the Virgin Mary is finally illuminated. With the Virgin Mary being the main figure of every cathedral they found it fitting for that panel to be the last to light up. They consider this stained glass window to be the heart of León because it is at the highest point in the city and at the top of the Catedral which was the first religious place to be declared a national monument in Spain. Overall, this was probably my favorite place that we visited so far because stained glass windows are a weakened of mine! 

Sunday, May 13, 2018

A Really Really Old Cup and Lots of Ancient Books

In Leon, we visited the basilica and museum of San Isodoro.  There were many very interesting things to look at and learn about, including the pantheon, a chalice that has been used since the eleventh century, and a library of books from across the ages.

The chalice of Dona Urraca is made out of two onyx bowls held together by gold and jewels.  The gold and jewels were added by Dona Urraca herself around 1063.  Stones such as emeralds and amethysts adorn the chalice as well as a carving of a smiling face which is believed to be a Roman cameo of some sort.  Around the base, the inscription "In Nomine Domini Vrraca Ferdinandi" or "In the name of God, Ferdinand's Urraca."  This chalice was used up until 1981 when it was then placed in the museum.  In 2014, research linked this chalice to the Holy Grail.  From this research, it is believed the bowls used to create the chalice are what Christ used at the Last Supper.

The library in the museum contained some of the oldest books written.  The construction of the library was commissioned in 1534 by Juan de Badajoz.  There are many different codices kept there as well as bibles and hymnals.  The crowning jewel of space is the Visigothic-Mozarabic Bible from 960.  This bible was copied by hand in Latin, but has 80 different notes made in Arabic in the margins to help some of the passages become clearer to the readers of the time.  The original binding has been replace, but otherwise the entire Bible is still intact.  There is also a large collection of hymnals and choir books.  These books are large and were used for the entire choir to read off of the same book during mass.

Both of these artifacts were incredibly amazing to see, and very interesting to learn about.  I was amazed at how old the chalice was, and I couldn't believe that it was being used until so recently.  As a musician, it was also really cool to see the choir books.  I remember learning about them in some of my classes, and I never dreamed I would actually see an original copy of not one, but a whole collection of them.  Overall, we had a great time and learned a lot about the basilica of San Isodoro and the history of Leon.

We were sadly not allowed to take pictures during our tour of the museum, so the images below come from the museum's website.




http://www.museosanisidorodeleon.com/sala-del-cliz-eng
http://www.museosanisidorodeleon.com/biblioteca-eng

3 Americans, A Canadian, and an Irishman walk into Leon…

What sounds like the beginning of a bad joke ended up becoming one of the most memorable aspects of this trip for a few of us. While returning from a day of sightseeing in the city of Leon, we attracted the attention of two friends who had only just recently met: one a lady from Toronto and the other a man from Ireland, both of them pilgrims along the Camino. After explaining why we were taking the journey, they were kind enough to pass along some fun wisdom and advice. For starters, the best way to learn about the Camino is to walk the Camino. In the Irishman’s case, he had originally walked his first leg of the pilgrimage up to Burgos, then headed back to Ireland. He then picked up where he had left off this may and had every intent to complete it this time (having just a two-hour flight makes things a bit easier to divide up). However out of everything they shared with us, possibly the most resonant statement they made is that you make it your Camino. You take it in your own unique way, visit your own sights, set your own pace, meet people where your interaction will only be for a few hours but if you see them later on it’s as if reuniting with a long lost best friend. That’s the closest I’ve come to understanding what they referred to as “The Magic” of the Pilgrimage.

Now as much as we would have liked to, we could not just chat with them the entire day. We later got to visit the Basilica of San Isidoro, as well as its accompanying museum. Within the walls of this Romanesque building lie some of the most interesting and well-preserved artifacts throughout history. Specifically, the Royal Pantheon, which held the tombs of several royal descendants, contained original Romanesque murals depicting scenes from Jesus’ Birth, Death, and Resurrection. On top of that, while it is now sealed, there is also said to be a secret tunnel with which the royal family snuck their way into the church ground and Pantheon. On top of that, there’s also one of the earliest calendars to ever be found inside, with a description of what was done every month. January was a man looking forward and back, December was resting and partying for Christmas, and to quote verbatim, “In May, you go to war”. But as incredible as this all would be to see, it’s even more incredible when one considers the fact that this wonderful art had never been restored, only cleaned. We saw basically the same thing in there that people from the 12thcentury would have seen (although they probably could have seen the entirety of the Nativity scene, as the one we laid eyes upon had been mostly broken up due to the addition of a door…) Speaking of broken up, even more incredible than all of this being original is that not only has it stood the test of time, it stood the test of Napoleon “I turn your Cloister into a stable” Bonaparte. 

The Camino has shown us magnificent buildings, delicious food, and delightful people so far. Each stop brings us something new to remember and take with us when we eventually return back to the U.S., and we can’t wait to share with you what happens next!